Hanoi, Cuc Phuong, and Hue

 Mother and baby langurs sleeping at the Endangered Primate Rescue Center (EPRC) inside Cuc Phuong Nat'l Park. One of my favorite photos captured on this trip. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

Phu Quoc island was the perfect way to start the trip and had exactly what we were looking for: tranquil beaches; a slow paced, small, and quiet village town; and an entire island to explore on motorbike. It was a great way to ease into a foreign country and prepare Jeff and I for the upcoming travels through Vietnam. That said, nothing could have prepared us for Hanoi, the country's capital.

I had my guard up from the moment I stepped off the plane. I've lived and traveled to some major cities in the United States (Los Angeles, San Francisco, New York), but Hanoi is starkly different. With a population of roughly 6.5 million, it is very crowded and chaotic. Structurally, it's a unique marriage of old and run down mixed with new and modern. You see a lot of the remnants from the Chinese domination and influence in the older buildings throughout the city.

Jeff on the streets of Hanoi (photo courtesy of street peddler). Street peddlers walk up, put these baskets on you (without your permission), ask to take a photo, then demand money afterwards. One of our very first experiences in the city. You learn to stop making eye contact or conversation with these people fairly quickly.

The Old Quarter (where we stayed for a night) is very charming – think San Francisco's China town: tiny alleyways; tall and narrow buildings; and people everywhere.  Overall, the city is pretty dirty and extremely noisy. Motorbikes dominate the streets, and as I've mentioned before, traffic is unruly. The motto is "just go" and you better not second guess your choice or you'll get hit. You see some crazy shit in traffic: full families on one motorbike; babies and toddlers without helmets hanging off the sides; people talking on the phone and texting while driving their motorbikes; and people driving against traffic. Traffic in Los Angeles is tame in comparison. Oh ya, and the honking. The sound of incessant honking pervades the entire city. "Organized chaos" is the best way I've heard it described.

While Phu Quoc was a breath of fresh air, our very first taste of Hanoi was a bitter one. It felt like everyone was trying to sell us something or rip us off; from the taxi driver, to street peddlers, even our hotel receptionist. I was definitely out of my comfort zone.

Another major hurdle for me was the change in dialect. Vietnamese is a tonal language, where different tones or notes dictate meaning of specific words - a word's meaning can be different, depending on how a syllable is stressed or accented. There are 4 major dialects across Vietnam: North, North Central, Central, and South. My parents are from the South (Saigon). As such, that is the dialect I speak and and familiar with. For me, the northern Vietnamese accent is very difficult to understand. At times, it sounds like a completely different language. While I did a decent job of muddling my way through conversations in Phu Quoc (Southwest Vietnam), many Hanoians gave me a blank stare when I asked even the simplest of questions.

English is my second language learned and I'm truly grateful I was raised in a predominantly Vietnamese speaking environment. Communication via the Vietnamese language has been a powerful tool and has made brief encounters much more colorful and memorable. Many of the Vietnamese I've encountered have been inquisitive and are curious to find out what I'm doing here and where I come from. This has really inspired me to learn and become fluent in my native language. I would love to strengthen my ability to communicate with my family, something that has been a life long struggle.

While traveling through Vietnam, I am reminded daily of how lucky I am. I have not only the ability and choice, but the freedom and resources to do what I want to do. Not everyone on this planet does. While this trip is certainly about having a lot of fun, it's also a major learning experience. I'm learning quite a bit about myself, and in general, life. We don't need much to be happy. It's the simple things: family, friends, love, food, and a comfortable place to sleep. For me, music and yoga as well. That's all I really need, everything else is noise.

After a quick stroll through the hustle and bustle of the Old Quarter, we retreated to the quiet of our hotel room. All I could think of was being back on Phu Quoc. Jeff pointed out that we were both probably experiencing a bit of culture shock. I think he was right. Later that eve we met Jeff's cousin, Natalie, for some drinks and a late dinner, and both called it a night.

The next morning, I got up early and went to Hoan Kiem Lake to practice yoga. Hundreds of people, mostly older women, congregate around the lake in the early morning (they start at 6am) to practice calisthenics, tai chi, and other forms of exercise. This is a remnant of the Ho Chi Minh era, when daily exercise was mandatory. A great site to see, it brought me back to my early days when I would watch my grandfather do the same calisthenics routine daily.

My second morning in Hanoi was much better (yoga and meditation had a lot to do with that) and I started to see the city's unique charm. Instead of trying to classify everything as good or bad, I just observed, and started to take it in. That said, Jeff and I both decided that we'd seen enough of the city and keeping to our motto of experiencing the road less traveled, we hopped on an early morning bus to Ninh Binh, rented motorbikes, and made our way to Cuc Phoung National Park for two nights and three days in the jungle.

Ho Mac (Mac Lake) at Cuc Phuong National Park. We stayed in the bungalows (pictured on the right) our first night in the park.

Yesterday, we made it to the beautiful city of Hue. In my opinion, this is and should be Vietnam's capital (it was at one point). I'm going stay here until at least Saturday. Traveling has been tiring and I'm going to take it easy for the next few days, take in the more subtle parts of the city, read, write, and practice yoga.

Jeff left for Saigon this morning and flies back to the states tomorrow morning. It's been a true pleasure to experience Vietnam with one of my oldest and dearest friends. We grew up together and he is like a brother to me. So grateful for this lifelong friendship, he has taught me so much.

More pics below...

-Hoang

Alleyway just outside our hotel room in Hanoi.

Motor bikes abound in Hanoi.

Each street in Hanoi's Old Quarter offers a specific type of good. Shoes were this street's speciality.

Pho Tai, Hanoi style. Softer noodles and a much subtler broth (it was not sweet at all). I haven't tried pho in Hue yet but I've heard it's a nice balance between the flavors of the Northern and Southern (sweeter broth) versions of this ubiquitous Vietnamese dish.

Ho Chi Minh, or Uncle Ho, pictured on the 100,000 dong bill. This equates to $5 USD and can buy you about 3-4 meals. Unlike the US bills, which are all green, the dong comes in various sizes and colors. 

 Langur at the Endangered Primate Rescue Center. The primates are rescued from poachers and the illegal animal trade, rehabilitated, and released back into the wild. It is a remarkable program. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

 Turtle swimming at the Turtle Conservation Center. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

White Wagtail spotted at one of the lakes in Cuc Phuong. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

 I'm not sure what this is. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

One of the many species of butterfly. These were all over the park and came in so many different sizes, shapes, and colors. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

View to the outside from the entrance of "cave of the prehistoric man".

Cuc Phuong is a jungle and is abundant with wildlife. Life truly thrives in this environment. Jeff pictured here with a giant grasshopper. Jeff is a bird biologist with Rocky Mountain Bird Observatory and all around nature guy. You learn quite a bit about nature hanging with this guy.

Rice farmer working one of the many rice patties in Vietnam. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

Main entrance into Hue's citadel, a massive fortified city within a city. It is a UNESCO world heritage site, and you can see why when you enter. I can't imagine the resource and time it took to build, impeccable to the smallest of details. 

Chay (vegetarian) lunch that we had inside the Citadel. Balanced, subtle deliciousness. I could eat this every day.

Reflections. The tranquil park inside the Citadel.

More photos inside the Citadel below... 

Phu Quoc, Vietnam: The road less traveled

After 25 hours of travel...

• 16 hours from LA to Hong Kong + a 3 hour layover,
• a 2 hour flight to Saigon (aka Ho Chi Minh City) + another 3 hour layover,
• and a short 1 hour puddle jumper from Saigon, 

we finally arrive to our first destination: Phu Quoc island, Vietnam. It was quite the journey to get here, but it was worth every second. The only other place I've been to that looks and feels like this is Hawaii. Tropical, humid weather, lush and vibrant greens. Water surrounds and dominates every aspect of life here. 70% of the island is covered in jungle.

The people of Phu Quoc have little in the way of material possessions and live simply. Many make their living from the sea and the land (Phu Quoc is the world's largest exporter of fish sauce and peppercorn). You see lots of makeshift homes, made from recycled materials and other miscellaneous materials. Despite some less than ideal conditions, you find an abundance of love and generosity. People readily welcome you in with a smile and are quick to help. I'm very grateful for the little Vietnamese I can speak, it has certainly helped us get around a bit.

While the surroundings have been breathtaking, I've been most blown away by how beautiful the people are, and especially the children. They are full of love and laughter and are happy to play in your presence - they are smart, very respectful, and clever as well. The majority of families live and work together, many times setting up shop right outside or in their home. It really is something else.

The only intention that Jeff and I set before our trip was to explore places off the beaten path, and Phu Quoc is just that.

I'll let the photos tell the story...

Love,
Hoang

Saigon from the plane out. Way bigger than I had imagined. Concrete jungle full of people.

Phu Quoc from the plane in.

Our quaint bungalow at Thanh Kieu resort.

The beach, about 30 yards from our bungalow.

Long Beach, Phu Quoc.

Fresh seafood at the night market (chợ đêm). The night market is the central hangout in Duong Dong (the largest city) in Phu Quoc, at night. Vendors lined two sides of a street and primarily sold fresh seafood that was caught earlier that day - you pick the product, they cook it to your desire and serve to you at tables in an open air setting. I could get used to this.

Sunset on the jetty, just outside the night market.

The jetty at Duong Dong.

The night market at Duong Dong.

Plate full of cockle, first course of our first meal on the island. We ate and drank like kings. Total cost was about $15USD.

Day market. Vendors selling fresh seafood and vegetables.

Another vendor selling fresh fruit.

More greens.

Banh mi - vietnamese sandwich on a french baguette. $0.50USD for the most amazing sandwich. My brother, Billy, and his wife Trisha, are so jealous.These vendors/stands are all over the island, each specializing in one or a few menu items (from sandwiches to bowls of pho to rice plates and desserts). Street food is all Jeff and I have been eating, and it's not only cheap, but some of the best Vietnamese food I've ever tasted.

Vendors selling fresh fish. The men do the fishing, the women work the markets to sell the goods.

Jeff and I rented motor bikes for $7USD per day and rode all around the island. This was the most fun I've had in a long time. Everyone is on a motor bike or bicycle in Phu Quoc (and Vietnam). It is truly unruly - you just go and use common sense. Pretty crazy but amazing fun. On our way to Ham Ninh, this spot on the side of the road called to us so we stopped - what we found was unbelievable. A beautiful hike through the jungle to a waterfall and swimming hole.

"Statues of concrete" as our friend Hao called them.

Hao and Jeff. Hao has been on the island for 7 years and never been to these falls. We happened to bump into him at the entrance and ended up spending a few hours with this gracious young man. His English was really good and he was asking for Jeff and I for pointers on certain phrases as he works in the tourism industry and wanted to improve his communication.

The falls and swimming hole. The gem of our day.

Kids swimming, playing at the falls.

One of my best friends and bad ass travel partner, Jeff Birek. This was taken at Ham Ninh, the eastern port city on Phu Quoc.

Everything in its right place

“.. almost everything – all external expectations, all pride, all fear of embarrassment or failure - these things just fall away in the face of death, leaving only what is truly important. Remembering that you are going to die is the best way I know to avoid the trap of thinking you have something to lose. You are already naked. There is no reason not to follow your heart.”  - Steve Jobs

Deep breath out. Smile.

The last month and a half have been such a whirlwind for me - Burning Man, wrapping up my job at DaVita, going away party and dinners, packing up my apartment and putting everything into storage, and best man duties at my little brother's wedding. I've actually had very little time to process the fact that I'm leaving the United States for the first time tomorrow and it likely won't hit me until I land in Vietnam in a few days.

I'm fortunate that I got to spend quality time with my beautiful family at my brother's wedding. It's always so much fun when we get everyone together and I am constantly reminded that I am surrounded by love. Eternally grateful, they have taught me so many lessons, primarily the importance of family.

Billy with his new wife, Trisha, and our extended family.

So the trip to Southeast Asia is really centered around the yoga teacher training program, which takes place from November 5th through December 3rd on the island of Koh Samui, Thailand. The training is Ashtanga based and is led by Paul Dallaghan, one of the last few to be certified by Sri K. Pattabhi Jois prior to his death. Needless to say, I'm so excited and cannot wait to immerse myself in yoga and a healthy lifestyle for an entire month. Lets push the boundary, see what I'm really made of.

I have 3 weeks of travel prior to getting to Thailand -- 2 weeks in Vietnam (~10 days with one of my best friends, Jeff) and about a week in Cambodia. After yoga teacher training, I have two weeks to travel across Thailand and will be joined by Cloud, another great friend. 

For me, Vietnam is significant because at the end of the day, this is who I am in this lifetime, Vietnamese. Much of who I am today has been molded by my family, our culture. I'm blessed, but those who came before me led much tougher lives - I've never had to worry about when or where my next meal would come from. I'm sure Asia will be a pretty eye opening experience. Looking forward to seeing where my family came from, and eating some really good food along the way.

Old school. Grandma and grandpa with 4 of their children. My mother is third from the left - I see a lot of myself in her.

I'll try to update this blog as much as possible, my goal is at least once a week, with pictures and stories from the road. I'm finding that writing is very therapeutic for me, and helps me reflect, process, and learn.

Before I sign off, I just wanted to say thank you to all my family and friends that are making this trip possible (you know who you are). So grateful.

Life on the OJ Jorral (A Burning Man '11 inspired mix)

A new mix I made, inspired by the sounds heard at Black Rock City (Burning Man 2011), and dedicated to my wonderful camp mates at the O.K. Korral.  Hope you enjoy!

Hoang Luu - Life on the OJ Jorral (a Burning Man '11 mix) by The Blend 303

Burning Man 2011 - Rites of Passage

O.K. Korral camp minus our British crew, Steve S. and Dave M.

Photo credit: Kelly Shroads

My Rite of Passage

For me, Burning Man 2011, was significant on many levels.  First, it was the precursor to my journey to Southeast Asia, where I will travel for 3 months as well as study to obtain my yoga teacher certification in Koh Samui, Thailand.  It was very fitting then, that this year's theme was "Rites of Passage".  I turned 30 this year, and for the first time in my life, I feel like I am truly living -- comfortable in my own skin and not afraid to strive to live life of my dreams.  

"A rite of passage is a ritual event that marks a person's progress from one status to another.  Rites of passage are often ceremonies surrounding events such as other milestones within puberty, coming of age, marriage and death. Initiation ceremonies such as baptism, confirmation and Bar or Bat Mitzvah are considered important rites of passage for people of their respective religions." - Wikipedia

For the most part, this is what Burning Man was for me.  It re-affirmed, in a huge way, many things that were already set in motion early this year and my decision to leave the corporate world (for now).  

Life is a precious gift, and I am grateful for all the opportunities that have been given to me and are in front of me everyday.  My mother and grandmother both made personal sacrifices so that I could live this life.  It would be a waste if I didn't live my life in a way that honored the sacrifice and struggle of those who came before me.

So, how was it?  As others have stated to me, it is tough to capture the experience in words or pictures as it is unlike anything else on this planet.  The magnitude of Burning Man is hard to grasp until you are there.  The planning, preparation, and everything leading up to getting through the gates was in itself a huge mountain to climb, and certainly a big part of the overall "experience".  With a camp of 28, 18 of which were virgins, we had major planning to do.  Truly amazing that I will spend only a fraction of the time (excluding my yoga practice and study) planning and preparing for my 3 month trip to SE Asia vs. my 1-week trek to the desert.

So before I left, my good friend Tara told me "be prepared to get your mind blown, over and over again..."

This was pretty much the case for me.  My first awe moment was Monday.  We had finished setting up the dome, which was the most labor intensive part of our camp setup and I decided to go on a solo mission to explore.  I love riding my bike, and Burning Man is probably the best place in the world to go exploring on your bike.  Again, it's tough to grasp the size of Burning Man until you are there, riding around in it, to understand how massive this place is.  Biking around, I couldn't help but to keep thinking "where the f*!k am I?"  Burning Man really feels like a place from the distant past or future, it's as if you warp to another planet or time once you drive through those gates.  From the attire, to the amazing, mind blowing art (particularly the art cars, WOW!), to how people act and treat each other, it is a complete departure from the norm.  The level of human compassion, sharing, and creativity that I witnessed at Burning Man continues to inspire me today.

On Monday evening, my friend Sami and I had the great pleasure of closing out The Music Savage's party.  They had an awesome theme camp this year right down the street from us with amazing line ups every night.  In my opinion, it's an honor to play at Burning Man parties, and to get asked to play my first year was really special (thank you Cameron and Matt - I love you guys).  Needless to say, it was a blast and I can't wait to do it again.

It was great being there for the entire week and I don't think I would ever do it differently.  Burning Man is a major shock to the senses, so having a few days in the beginning of the week to settle in really helps.  In the first 3 days, I did a lot of exploring, attended a few yoga classes, checked out the art, and just took it all in.  It was awesome having 18 other virgins to relate this experience with.  So many times, we would just look at each other in amazement about what was before our eyes - "are you kidding me?  is this for real?" were common phrases throughout the week followed by huge smiles, and warm, heart felt hugs.  What I saw and felt is really indescribable - everyone there is pushing the limits of their own creativity and boundaries of what is acceptable - it takes a city of everyone doing that to create this unbelievable phenomenon.  It is at times utterly ridiculous, and you just have to laugh and smile.

Playa art: "LOVE"

Photo credit: Tara Eisler

So, Burning Man isn't just one thing -- a huge party, art, music, lots of dust... there are thousands of sides to it, and my friend Lopa summed it up nicely: "it's such a beautiful blank canvas environment".  So true.  There really are no rules, except be respectful of your fellow humans -- treat them with compassion, love, and respect.  You can go and meditate all week or can party non-stop.  Take in all the art possible, or just hang out at camp.  Whatever floats your boat.

The Temple of Transition

Photo credit: Mario Covic (www.mariocovic.com)

I did notice a fair number of seekers at Burning Man. It was awesome to be at the Temple or center camp and just watch people practicing yoga or meditating.  There is a beautiful spiritual side to Burning Man and the playa itself has this mystical, radiant energy to it .  The sunrise and sunsets were spectacular and my favorite parts of the day.  One of my favorite moments in the week was practicing yoga in front of the Temple for sunrise on Sunday morning (after the burn).

So why did I fall in love with Burning Man?  There are many, many reasons, but if I can sum it up, it's the only place on Earth where I can wake up, practice yoga, go take a meditation workshop, get spanked on my way to getting a cup of coffee, get lost and feel completely comfortable walking up and hanging out with strangers, attend a no-pants party, and listen to my favorite DJ on the world's most ridiculous sound/art car (Robot Heart).  Oh, and I can wear a tutu and paint my fingers purple and that's completely acceptable, even encouraged.  Burning Man challenges your notion of what is acceptable vs. not.  As a result, I've come back much more open, and less quick to judge.

The crew at Robot Heart, Lee Burridge sunrise set.

Photo credit: Andrew Xydeas

So the highlight of my week, and many others, was Lee Burridge @ Robot Heart.  Lee has been my favorite for years now, and I've seen him in various cities and settings.  He plays my kind of music - the kind that evokes a wide range of emotion, mixed and programmed flawlessly.  He is also an amazing person to boot and genuinely connects with the crowd.  I'm not sure what happens out there, but Lee @ Robot Heart on the playa is something straight out of a comic book.  This experience will certainly be etched in my memory for a lifetime and I'm so grateful to have shared it with some amazing friends, old and new.

So much more I would love to convey and write, yet so little time.  Gears now switch to finishing up my duties at work, attending my brother's wedding (I'm the best man!), planning and preparing for my upcoming journey through SE Asia and practicing and studying as much yoga as possible in the next 3 weeks.

I'm full of gratitude...I left Burning Man much more determined and hungry, excited to pursue my life's dream and passion.  I also left with some amazing new friendships, many of them across the pond (beware, I am coming to visit you all), and many from the place I now call home, Denver.

The lesson and message that I carry with me:

Life is a precious gift, take time to laugh, play, create, and share.  Never stop dreaming and chasing exactly what you want in this life.  


Alone we can accomplish many great things, together we can accomplish anything - we live in a limitless universe with no boundary, full of unconditional love.


-Hoang

The Temple Burn. 

Photo credit: Tara Eisler