Peeling back the layers

Traveling alone can be scary, and at times, very lonely. You learn to quickly trust and listen to your intuition. With it also comes more time and serenity for deeper exploration and reflection.

The few additional days in Huế were perfect for that. After being on the go for the first 10 days, I slowed down a bit and explored the city, found my favorite spots, got to know some locals, and sampled a variety of the region specific dishes. I ate the most amazing meals from vendors in the local market and off the street. Unique, balanced, and subtle flavors in wide range of dishes, Huế's breadth of food choices is heavily influenced by the fact that it was once a city for emperors with finicky palates. My favorites from this region are bún bò Huế, bánh xèo, and bánh ướt. Traveling across Vietnam, eating at the most unsuspecting places, I really felt like Anthony Bordain at times. If you haven't already noticed, I love food, especially Vietnamese food and this trip has been incredible in that aspect.

City of lights. These lanterns adorn Hoi An at night, making for a very pretty city.

After 3 days in Huế, I jumped on a bus and headed towards Hội An, an old trading port about 120km SE of Huế. Hội An is also a UNESCO world heritage site. ~80 homes and buildings in Old Town are still in their original form and prohibited from major modernization or upgrades. Walking down the streets of Old Town, you feel transported back a few hundred years.

Hội An is known for it’s unique Chinese architecture, and more famously, for it’s tailors. About 500 tailors work in the city, and cater to the ever growing tourism industry - there is literally a fabric and tailor shop every other store. You can get anything made, custom fit, usually in about 24 hrs. I got two pairs of linen shorts made and they are already my favorite pairs I own. My friend Ben got a high quality custom fit suit made for $190 USD.

Although Hội An is only 100km from Huế, the change in dialect was distinct. I finally could understand what most were saying and they could at least make out that I was trying to speak Vietnamese. The women in the markets got a kick out of my response of "hết tiền" (out of money) when they would solicit me to buy their goods in English. I don't look like your typical Vietnamese male, so when I spoke Vietnamese (although poorly), it surprised people, and many times ended solicitation and prompted a real conversation. Cool trick.

Mỹ Sơn temples. This site was one of the few left in decent shape.

On Sunday, I rented a motorbike and made my way to the Mỹ Sơn relics, a cluster of Hindu temples built by the kings of Champa. This was their religious center, where they worshipped Shiva, or better known locally as "Bhadresvara". This is also a world cultural heritage site, though, most of it was decimated during the Vietnam War. Efforts are currently ongoing and underway to restore many of the sites. Mỹ Sơn has been compared to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, but that is hardly a fair comparison. These are much, much smaller and for the most part have been ruined and poorly cared for over the years.

After a second night in Hội An, I took a flight back to Saigon early Monday morning to close out my trip in Vietnam. Known officially as Ho Chi Minh City, Saigon was renamed after the North defeated America and the South - everyone but government officials still call it by Saigon, and I agree, it's a much prettier name for a city.

Saigon is my family's hometown and has changed considerably since they left in the early 1980s. It is quickly becoming a modern city, with new high rises shooting up left and right. The guide books are right, Saigon is Hanoi's deviant, chic, and cooler brother. The vibe is much different and feels a bit like New York city, everyone is on the go, and there is always something going on. It's also a melting pot, many Vietnamese from all over the country have relocated here over the years. I also met a number of non-Vietnamese living in Saigon.

On my last full day, I went on a 1 day tour of the Mekong river. We rafted down one of the river's many channel ways, watched coconut candy being made, ate lunch in a fishing village, listened to live traditional Vietnamese music, and for $15 USD, I took a high speed boat ride on the Mekong back to Saigon versus taking the bus. Amazing and worth every penny, this two hour ride was one of the highlights of my trip to Vietnam.

The sights of the Mekong were incredible and created an amazing space for reflection. Replaying all that I had seen, heard, and felt in the last 16 days, I was in complete awe. What an amazing country - the people, the food, the culture, the way of life are all so beautiful. So strange yet so familiar for me. I was in love and I did not want to leave.

Rafting down a channel way in one of the Mekong's fishing villages.

Growing up, all I ever wanted to be was anything BUT Vietnamese. I didn't understand why my family didn't do things like other American families. This is the struggle of second generation immigrants. We are caught between two worlds, never feeling as if we fully belong in one or the other. In school, no one could pronounce my name properly and I got called racial slurs as a young child. The only person that truly understood what I was going through was my brother, Billy. My cousins, who were all born in Vietnam and considered 1st generation immigrants (born in Vietnam), were also wonderful role models for my brother and I.

At home, I never understood why my grandma was so frugal. She insisted that we save and re-use everything and felt like a lot of things in America were a waste of money. She was and is right. As I've gotten older, I've come to understand and appreciate that view. This trip has certainly helped and is a significant step for me. It's certainly taught me much about myself and given me a deeper appreciation and understanding for my family and the struggles they've gone through. In the most non-egoic way, I am extremely proud to call myself Vietnamese.

Yesterday, I woke up in tears, contemplating if I should stay longer in Vietnam and just cancel the Cambodia leg altogether. The answer quickly came to me and was a definitive "no". As hard as it was to leave, there's a reason for me to go to Cambodia, though that reason isn't 100% clear just yet. One of the most important lessons of yoga is non-attachment. I had definitely become attached to Vietnam and it was time to let her go. New adventures, challenges, and lessons await.

It has been a life changing and affirming experience. Thank you Vietnam for reminding me who I am.

-Hoang

Cao Lau, a Hoi An specialty, and one of my favorite dishes discovered in Vietnam. Flat egg noodles served with thin slices of pork, and a variety of vegetables and sprouts. Add a unique sauce and voila, you have magic. I've never had it prior to this trip but hope I can find it back in the states. 

Beautiful red lanterns hang from the ceiling at the very chic Q Bar in Hoi An. 

Cool artwork at Q Bar.

Loz (Lauren) and Ben, a great couple from Australia. Jeff and I bumped into them in Cuc Phuong, then again in Hue. I ran into them again in Hoi An and Saigon and went out for dinner and drinks with them a few nights in both cities. This was taken at Morning Glory in Hoi An, one of our favorite meals of the trip. 

Financial center in Saigon and some new building going up right beside it.

Saigon's city hall, designed by the French.

What have we learned from our mistakes? From the War Remnants Museum.

Powerful images and quotes throughout the entire Museum. It's definitely biased but there are truths and facts we can't ignore.

Wall art in one of Saigon's pagodas.

This is Vu, my xe om (or motorbike) driver in Saigon. It was a great way to explore Saigon as I definitely wasn't ready to ride one by myself. The traffic is crazy and the city is a big one.

Anh Lung, our Mekong tour guide, showing us how honey is made at one of the fishing villages.

Snake and scorpion wine, no thanks :-D

Mekong channel in the fishing villages. The people living here utilize these to get around from village to village. Tourism to these villages provide a significant source of income.

Deep fried elephant ear fish, our lunch at the fishing village. Doesn't look so appetizing, but was delicious. The meat of the fish is served in fresh spring rolls with rice vermicelli, sprouts, and of course, fish sauce. 

Water buffalo taking a bath.

The mighty Mekong. A nasty storm came through at the end of our day.

Vietnamese folk music being performed. Vietnamese music, in my opinion, is pretty bad. That said, I do enjoy some of the folk music and instruments.

Hanoi, Cuc Phuong, and Hue

 Mother and baby langurs sleeping at the Endangered Primate Rescue Center (EPRC) inside Cuc Phuong Nat'l Park. One of my favorite photos captured on this trip. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

Phu Quoc island was the perfect way to start the trip and had exactly what we were looking for: tranquil beaches; a slow paced, small, and quiet village town; and an entire island to explore on motorbike. It was a great way to ease into a foreign country and prepare Jeff and I for the upcoming travels through Vietnam. That said, nothing could have prepared us for Hanoi, the country's capital.

I had my guard up from the moment I stepped off the plane. I've lived and traveled to some major cities in the United States (Los Angeles, San Francisco, New York), but Hanoi is starkly different. With a population of roughly 6.5 million, it is very crowded and chaotic. Structurally, it's a unique marriage of old and run down mixed with new and modern. You see a lot of the remnants from the Chinese domination and influence in the older buildings throughout the city.

Jeff on the streets of Hanoi (photo courtesy of street peddler). Street peddlers walk up, put these baskets on you (without your permission), ask to take a photo, then demand money afterwards. One of our very first experiences in the city. You learn to stop making eye contact or conversation with these people fairly quickly.

The Old Quarter (where we stayed for a night) is very charming – think San Francisco's China town: tiny alleyways; tall and narrow buildings; and people everywhere.  Overall, the city is pretty dirty and extremely noisy. Motorbikes dominate the streets, and as I've mentioned before, traffic is unruly. The motto is "just go" and you better not second guess your choice or you'll get hit. You see some crazy shit in traffic: full families on one motorbike; babies and toddlers without helmets hanging off the sides; people talking on the phone and texting while driving their motorbikes; and people driving against traffic. Traffic in Los Angeles is tame in comparison. Oh ya, and the honking. The sound of incessant honking pervades the entire city. "Organized chaos" is the best way I've heard it described.

While Phu Quoc was a breath of fresh air, our very first taste of Hanoi was a bitter one. It felt like everyone was trying to sell us something or rip us off; from the taxi driver, to street peddlers, even our hotel receptionist. I was definitely out of my comfort zone.

Another major hurdle for me was the change in dialect. Vietnamese is a tonal language, where different tones or notes dictate meaning of specific words - a word's meaning can be different, depending on how a syllable is stressed or accented. There are 4 major dialects across Vietnam: North, North Central, Central, and South. My parents are from the South (Saigon). As such, that is the dialect I speak and and familiar with. For me, the northern Vietnamese accent is very difficult to understand. At times, it sounds like a completely different language. While I did a decent job of muddling my way through conversations in Phu Quoc (Southwest Vietnam), many Hanoians gave me a blank stare when I asked even the simplest of questions.

English is my second language learned and I'm truly grateful I was raised in a predominantly Vietnamese speaking environment. Communication via the Vietnamese language has been a powerful tool and has made brief encounters much more colorful and memorable. Many of the Vietnamese I've encountered have been inquisitive and are curious to find out what I'm doing here and where I come from. This has really inspired me to learn and become fluent in my native language. I would love to strengthen my ability to communicate with my family, something that has been a life long struggle.

While traveling through Vietnam, I am reminded daily of how lucky I am. I have not only the ability and choice, but the freedom and resources to do what I want to do. Not everyone on this planet does. While this trip is certainly about having a lot of fun, it's also a major learning experience. I'm learning quite a bit about myself, and in general, life. We don't need much to be happy. It's the simple things: family, friends, love, food, and a comfortable place to sleep. For me, music and yoga as well. That's all I really need, everything else is noise.

After a quick stroll through the hustle and bustle of the Old Quarter, we retreated to the quiet of our hotel room. All I could think of was being back on Phu Quoc. Jeff pointed out that we were both probably experiencing a bit of culture shock. I think he was right. Later that eve we met Jeff's cousin, Natalie, for some drinks and a late dinner, and both called it a night.

The next morning, I got up early and went to Hoan Kiem Lake to practice yoga. Hundreds of people, mostly older women, congregate around the lake in the early morning (they start at 6am) to practice calisthenics, tai chi, and other forms of exercise. This is a remnant of the Ho Chi Minh era, when daily exercise was mandatory. A great site to see, it brought me back to my early days when I would watch my grandfather do the same calisthenics routine daily.

My second morning in Hanoi was much better (yoga and meditation had a lot to do with that) and I started to see the city's unique charm. Instead of trying to classify everything as good or bad, I just observed, and started to take it in. That said, Jeff and I both decided that we'd seen enough of the city and keeping to our motto of experiencing the road less traveled, we hopped on an early morning bus to Ninh Binh, rented motorbikes, and made our way to Cuc Phoung National Park for two nights and three days in the jungle.

Ho Mac (Mac Lake) at Cuc Phuong National Park. We stayed in the bungalows (pictured on the right) our first night in the park.

Yesterday, we made it to the beautiful city of Hue. In my opinion, this is and should be Vietnam's capital (it was at one point). I'm going stay here until at least Saturday. Traveling has been tiring and I'm going to take it easy for the next few days, take in the more subtle parts of the city, read, write, and practice yoga.

Jeff left for Saigon this morning and flies back to the states tomorrow morning. It's been a true pleasure to experience Vietnam with one of my oldest and dearest friends. We grew up together and he is like a brother to me. So grateful for this lifelong friendship, he has taught me so much.

More pics below...

-Hoang

Alleyway just outside our hotel room in Hanoi.

Motor bikes abound in Hanoi.

Each street in Hanoi's Old Quarter offers a specific type of good. Shoes were this street's speciality.

Pho Tai, Hanoi style. Softer noodles and a much subtler broth (it was not sweet at all). I haven't tried pho in Hue yet but I've heard it's a nice balance between the flavors of the Northern and Southern (sweeter broth) versions of this ubiquitous Vietnamese dish.

Ho Chi Minh, or Uncle Ho, pictured on the 100,000 dong bill. This equates to $5 USD and can buy you about 3-4 meals. Unlike the US bills, which are all green, the dong comes in various sizes and colors. 

 Langur at the Endangered Primate Rescue Center. The primates are rescued from poachers and the illegal animal trade, rehabilitated, and released back into the wild. It is a remarkable program. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

 Turtle swimming at the Turtle Conservation Center. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

White Wagtail spotted at one of the lakes in Cuc Phuong. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

 I'm not sure what this is. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

One of the many species of butterfly. These were all over the park and came in so many different sizes, shapes, and colors. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

View to the outside from the entrance of "cave of the prehistoric man".

Cuc Phuong is a jungle and is abundant with wildlife. Life truly thrives in this environment. Jeff pictured here with a giant grasshopper. Jeff is a bird biologist with Rocky Mountain Bird Observatory and all around nature guy. You learn quite a bit about nature hanging with this guy.

Rice farmer working one of the many rice patties in Vietnam. (photo courtesy of Jeff Birek)

Main entrance into Hue's citadel, a massive fortified city within a city. It is a UNESCO world heritage site, and you can see why when you enter. I can't imagine the resource and time it took to build, impeccable to the smallest of details. 

Chay (vegetarian) lunch that we had inside the Citadel. Balanced, subtle deliciousness. I could eat this every day.

Reflections. The tranquil park inside the Citadel.

More photos inside the Citadel below... 

Phu Quoc, Vietnam: The road less traveled

After 25 hours of travel...

• 16 hours from LA to Hong Kong + a 3 hour layover,
• a 2 hour flight to Saigon (aka Ho Chi Minh City) + another 3 hour layover,
• and a short 1 hour puddle jumper from Saigon, 

we finally arrive to our first destination: Phu Quoc island, Vietnam. It was quite the journey to get here, but it was worth every second. The only other place I've been to that looks and feels like this is Hawaii. Tropical, humid weather, lush and vibrant greens. Water surrounds and dominates every aspect of life here. 70% of the island is covered in jungle.

The people of Phu Quoc have little in the way of material possessions and live simply. Many make their living from the sea and the land (Phu Quoc is the world's largest exporter of fish sauce and peppercorn). You see lots of makeshift homes, made from recycled materials and other miscellaneous materials. Despite some less than ideal conditions, you find an abundance of love and generosity. People readily welcome you in with a smile and are quick to help. I'm very grateful for the little Vietnamese I can speak, it has certainly helped us get around a bit.

While the surroundings have been breathtaking, I've been most blown away by how beautiful the people are, and especially the children. They are full of love and laughter and are happy to play in your presence - they are smart, very respectful, and clever as well. The majority of families live and work together, many times setting up shop right outside or in their home. It really is something else.

The only intention that Jeff and I set before our trip was to explore places off the beaten path, and Phu Quoc is just that.

I'll let the photos tell the story...

Love,
Hoang

Saigon from the plane out. Way bigger than I had imagined. Concrete jungle full of people.

Phu Quoc from the plane in.

Our quaint bungalow at Thanh Kieu resort.

The beach, about 30 yards from our bungalow.

Long Beach, Phu Quoc.

Fresh seafood at the night market (chợ đêm). The night market is the central hangout in Duong Dong (the largest city) in Phu Quoc, at night. Vendors lined two sides of a street and primarily sold fresh seafood that was caught earlier that day - you pick the product, they cook it to your desire and serve to you at tables in an open air setting. I could get used to this.

Sunset on the jetty, just outside the night market.

The jetty at Duong Dong.

The night market at Duong Dong.

Plate full of cockle, first course of our first meal on the island. We ate and drank like kings. Total cost was about $15USD.

Day market. Vendors selling fresh seafood and vegetables.

Another vendor selling fresh fruit.

More greens.

Banh mi - vietnamese sandwich on a french baguette. $0.50USD for the most amazing sandwich. My brother, Billy, and his wife Trisha, are so jealous.These vendors/stands are all over the island, each specializing in one or a few menu items (from sandwiches to bowls of pho to rice plates and desserts). Street food is all Jeff and I have been eating, and it's not only cheap, but some of the best Vietnamese food I've ever tasted.

Vendors selling fresh fish. The men do the fishing, the women work the markets to sell the goods.

Jeff and I rented motor bikes for $7USD per day and rode all around the island. This was the most fun I've had in a long time. Everyone is on a motor bike or bicycle in Phu Quoc (and Vietnam). It is truly unruly - you just go and use common sense. Pretty crazy but amazing fun. On our way to Ham Ninh, this spot on the side of the road called to us so we stopped - what we found was unbelievable. A beautiful hike through the jungle to a waterfall and swimming hole.

"Statues of concrete" as our friend Hao called them.

Hao and Jeff. Hao has been on the island for 7 years and never been to these falls. We happened to bump into him at the entrance and ended up spending a few hours with this gracious young man. His English was really good and he was asking for Jeff and I for pointers on certain phrases as he works in the tourism industry and wanted to improve his communication.

The falls and swimming hole. The gem of our day.

Kids swimming, playing at the falls.

One of my best friends and bad ass travel partner, Jeff Birek. This was taken at Ham Ninh, the eastern port city on Phu Quoc.