Peeling back the layers

Traveling alone can be scary, and at times, very lonely. You learn to quickly trust and listen to your intuition. With it also comes more time and serenity for deeper exploration and reflection.

The few additional days in Huế were perfect for that. After being on the go for the first 10 days, I slowed down a bit and explored the city, found my favorite spots, got to know some locals, and sampled a variety of the region specific dishes. I ate the most amazing meals from vendors in the local market and off the street. Unique, balanced, and subtle flavors in wide range of dishes, Huế's breadth of food choices is heavily influenced by the fact that it was once a city for emperors with finicky palates. My favorites from this region are bún bò Huế, bánh xèo, and bánh ướt. Traveling across Vietnam, eating at the most unsuspecting places, I really felt like Anthony Bordain at times. If you haven't already noticed, I love food, especially Vietnamese food and this trip has been incredible in that aspect.

City of lights. These lanterns adorn Hoi An at night, making for a very pretty city.

After 3 days in Huế, I jumped on a bus and headed towards Hội An, an old trading port about 120km SE of Huế. Hội An is also a UNESCO world heritage site. ~80 homes and buildings in Old Town are still in their original form and prohibited from major modernization or upgrades. Walking down the streets of Old Town, you feel transported back a few hundred years.

Hội An is known for it’s unique Chinese architecture, and more famously, for it’s tailors. About 500 tailors work in the city, and cater to the ever growing tourism industry - there is literally a fabric and tailor shop every other store. You can get anything made, custom fit, usually in about 24 hrs. I got two pairs of linen shorts made and they are already my favorite pairs I own. My friend Ben got a high quality custom fit suit made for $190 USD.

Although Hội An is only 100km from Huế, the change in dialect was distinct. I finally could understand what most were saying and they could at least make out that I was trying to speak Vietnamese. The women in the markets got a kick out of my response of "hết tiền" (out of money) when they would solicit me to buy their goods in English. I don't look like your typical Vietnamese male, so when I spoke Vietnamese (although poorly), it surprised people, and many times ended solicitation and prompted a real conversation. Cool trick.

Mỹ Sơn temples. This site was one of the few left in decent shape.

On Sunday, I rented a motorbike and made my way to the Mỹ Sơn relics, a cluster of Hindu temples built by the kings of Champa. This was their religious center, where they worshipped Shiva, or better known locally as "Bhadresvara". This is also a world cultural heritage site, though, most of it was decimated during the Vietnam War. Efforts are currently ongoing and underway to restore many of the sites. Mỹ Sơn has been compared to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, but that is hardly a fair comparison. These are much, much smaller and for the most part have been ruined and poorly cared for over the years.

After a second night in Hội An, I took a flight back to Saigon early Monday morning to close out my trip in Vietnam. Known officially as Ho Chi Minh City, Saigon was renamed after the North defeated America and the South - everyone but government officials still call it by Saigon, and I agree, it's a much prettier name for a city.

Saigon is my family's hometown and has changed considerably since they left in the early 1980s. It is quickly becoming a modern city, with new high rises shooting up left and right. The guide books are right, Saigon is Hanoi's deviant, chic, and cooler brother. The vibe is much different and feels a bit like New York city, everyone is on the go, and there is always something going on. It's also a melting pot, many Vietnamese from all over the country have relocated here over the years. I also met a number of non-Vietnamese living in Saigon.

On my last full day, I went on a 1 day tour of the Mekong river. We rafted down one of the river's many channel ways, watched coconut candy being made, ate lunch in a fishing village, listened to live traditional Vietnamese music, and for $15 USD, I took a high speed boat ride on the Mekong back to Saigon versus taking the bus. Amazing and worth every penny, this two hour ride was one of the highlights of my trip to Vietnam.

The sights of the Mekong were incredible and created an amazing space for reflection. Replaying all that I had seen, heard, and felt in the last 16 days, I was in complete awe. What an amazing country - the people, the food, the culture, the way of life are all so beautiful. So strange yet so familiar for me. I was in love and I did not want to leave.

Rafting down a channel way in one of the Mekong's fishing villages.

Growing up, all I ever wanted to be was anything BUT Vietnamese. I didn't understand why my family didn't do things like other American families. This is the struggle of second generation immigrants. We are caught between two worlds, never feeling as if we fully belong in one or the other. In school, no one could pronounce my name properly and I got called racial slurs as a young child. The only person that truly understood what I was going through was my brother, Billy. My cousins, who were all born in Vietnam and considered 1st generation immigrants (born in Vietnam), were also wonderful role models for my brother and I.

At home, I never understood why my grandma was so frugal. She insisted that we save and re-use everything and felt like a lot of things in America were a waste of money. She was and is right. As I've gotten older, I've come to understand and appreciate that view. This trip has certainly helped and is a significant step for me. It's certainly taught me much about myself and given me a deeper appreciation and understanding for my family and the struggles they've gone through. In the most non-egoic way, I am extremely proud to call myself Vietnamese.

Yesterday, I woke up in tears, contemplating if I should stay longer in Vietnam and just cancel the Cambodia leg altogether. The answer quickly came to me and was a definitive "no". As hard as it was to leave, there's a reason for me to go to Cambodia, though that reason isn't 100% clear just yet. One of the most important lessons of yoga is non-attachment. I had definitely become attached to Vietnam and it was time to let her go. New adventures, challenges, and lessons await.

It has been a life changing and affirming experience. Thank you Vietnam for reminding me who I am.

-Hoang

Cao Lau, a Hoi An specialty, and one of my favorite dishes discovered in Vietnam. Flat egg noodles served with thin slices of pork, and a variety of vegetables and sprouts. Add a unique sauce and voila, you have magic. I've never had it prior to this trip but hope I can find it back in the states. 

Beautiful red lanterns hang from the ceiling at the very chic Q Bar in Hoi An. 

Cool artwork at Q Bar.

Loz (Lauren) and Ben, a great couple from Australia. Jeff and I bumped into them in Cuc Phuong, then again in Hue. I ran into them again in Hoi An and Saigon and went out for dinner and drinks with them a few nights in both cities. This was taken at Morning Glory in Hoi An, one of our favorite meals of the trip. 

Financial center in Saigon and some new building going up right beside it.

Saigon's city hall, designed by the French.

What have we learned from our mistakes? From the War Remnants Museum.

Powerful images and quotes throughout the entire Museum. It's definitely biased but there are truths and facts we can't ignore.

Wall art in one of Saigon's pagodas.

This is Vu, my xe om (or motorbike) driver in Saigon. It was a great way to explore Saigon as I definitely wasn't ready to ride one by myself. The traffic is crazy and the city is a big one.

Anh Lung, our Mekong tour guide, showing us how honey is made at one of the fishing villages.

Snake and scorpion wine, no thanks :-D

Mekong channel in the fishing villages. The people living here utilize these to get around from village to village. Tourism to these villages provide a significant source of income.

Deep fried elephant ear fish, our lunch at the fishing village. Doesn't look so appetizing, but was delicious. The meat of the fish is served in fresh spring rolls with rice vermicelli, sprouts, and of course, fish sauce. 

Water buffalo taking a bath.

The mighty Mekong. A nasty storm came through at the end of our day.

Vietnamese folk music being performed. Vietnamese music, in my opinion, is pretty bad. That said, I do enjoy some of the folk music and instruments.